We set off again with Francois – the man who was Dian Fossey’s porter…he knew her well and has grown up in this forest. Not a huge trek today – about 5 hours in total.
After about 1.5 hours or so, we find the Umubano Group – meaning “living together.” Charlie the leader shown below constantly fought with Ubumwe – the older silverback until eventually they split apart and Charlie started his own group.
Meet Charlie! Chilling out on his own…
then sitting up being a bit more astute and curious…but still very chilled and in control.
i am awestruck by the human and non human like behavior. the communication between members is so much more subtle, there isn’t a need for lots of words or points or comments or debates…they just interact, share, live in the moment. It’s peaceful, calming and completely freeing being in this space.
you can see the curiosity in his eyes – hearing the group rustle around nearby….
Mommy and baby – the maternal love shown by gorillas is extraordinary…these little ones are well taken care of and always immaculate! I’m amazed by their presence and state of mind. tending to the needs of the moment.
And sometimes the wants of the moment – like FUN! Introducing the gorilla giggle! These 2 are just wrestling and having a blast – by tickling one another!!
You may notice the little hand injury – it should heal quickly…not unheard of in the jungle – could be bamboo, quarrels or falling…but no worries, the gorilla doctors monitor regularly. www.gorilladoctors.org.
And here’s where the big question comes in for me…how close SHOULD we get to these “wild” animals. Seen here, i’m within 10 feet and often times gorillas brush by humans – there is absolutely contact. What’s interesting is that they are so habituated that they don’t seem to mind the hour that we are there, they couldn’t be bothered. I’m not saying we should hug them, but they are used to humans and not afraid…not one bit.
Leaves me wondering – what is the right amount of comfort? are we just creating an unfenced 3 country zoo? if so, should we vaccinate them so they stop dieing from respiratory diseases and parasites? If the policies change, will they be in danger? though tourism is supporting the local communities and has effectively stopped packing, are there other dangers ahead?
Having spent 3 days trekking, hours speaking with the Chief Park Officer, people from Gorillas Doctors, DFGI and IGCN, i am left with more questions than answers…I’m encouraged by the progress made – and that these beautiful beings are still with us, but concerned about the future and the tightrope we are walking…more coming soon.
What i do know is that Francois is a wonderful man who is passionate about the gorillas and the conservation of the species. He is now someone i consider a friend. I am very very fortunate. He made sure i had the opportunity to view as many of each of the group as possible – working hard to ensure i had the best chance of getting to know the group…all with a smile, and a keen eye on the gorillas. He knew any movement they made, when one was in distress and he vocalizes just like the gorillas to make sure they knew they were safe. I am in the best hands possible.
What a 3rd day of trekking – out in the open and completely chilled for us to visit – i’ve somehow lucked out and have been able to observe, share space with and send love to my new friends in the Umubano group.
Trek 4 coming soon….
Thank you Rwanda. Thank you Volcanoes National Park and RDB and thank you Gorilla Doctors, DFGI and IGCN for all you do.
NAMASTE.